Many thanks to Jonathan Chang for getting me most of the way to this goal! I am sharing some details of the process of identifying the URL here. Check out the linked tutorial; I am illustrating some of the steps to get to where you can find the API.
- Right-click on the Story Map web page and select “Inspect”
- Select the “Network” tab in the console
- Filter by “Fetch/XHR”
- Refresh the page
- Scroll down to the layer you want, and watch for “FeatureServer” in the “Name” field
- Right click this entry, “copy URL” and paste into the browser, and delete the string including and after the ?
- This should get you to the API where you can see the layer list; is your layer of interest there? If so, it is followed by a number in parentheses. Click on it, and this is the URL you can use with the esridump tool